Letters from Grenada

confessions of a reformed tourist

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“break stick in your ears, or what?”

West Indian slang for ejaculate (both the noun and the verb) is “break”. I thought, at first, that this was kind of weird, but the more I thought about it, the more it made perfect sense.

Break? Break. Break! Yes. Exactly.

There’s also a saying, something that you ask people who are just not hearing what you’re telling them. If you find a person is obtuse or bull-headed or just needs to be reminded of the same damn t’ing over and over?

“Break stick in your ears, or what?”

I was so proud of myself when I sorted that one out. And I thought it was pretty hilarious. To ask someone if they had semen in their ears that was keeping them from hearing properly? That’s a real knee-slapper. I wondered if such an idea could be acceptably translated into the American lexicon. I made tentative plans to appropriate the concept, incorporate it into my personal idiom.

About a year later I realized that I’d completely misunderstood, and that the break stick question is actually asking if someone stuck a stick in your ear and broke it off, leaving the end of the stick in there, making you half-deaf. There’s some subtext there, and its juiciness is eclipsed only by its yuckiness.

I wasn’t proud of that realization, but rather relieved that I’d never explicitly stated what I had thought the slang phrase meant.

The learning curve when you live in another country actually gets steeper as you reach the top. When you first arrive in a foreign land, you’re overwhelmed by all the differences. The accents, the food, the daily words and actions that are small to you but hugely insulting to the lady in the market who sells you breadfruit or the taxi man who picks you up at the airport. After six or so months you get to a point where you think you’re on the level. You know the secret handshake. You get the joke. You stop worrying about embarrassing yourself. And it feels great, understanding and being understood. You breathe a sigh of relief, and you get comfortable.

But then a year or so later, a funny thing happens. One day you’re minding your own business when a memory is triggered, something that happened in your early days, probably something someone said to you, and suddenly you understand what they really really meant. The details aren’t important, but it’s a facepalm moment for sure. You groan, wonder what else you missed and try to convince yourself that your faux pas has been forgotten.

That moment when you first truly comprehend the steepness of the learning curve is a mixed blessing. Because from then on you know enough to know that you’re still a lifetime of layers away from truly getting the joke, and that maybe, just maybe, you always will be.

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One Response to ““break stick in your ears, or what?””

  1. 1
    Finola Prescott (4 comments.):

    Nice one :) And if you’re lucky enough to live in more than one Caribbean island, you realize how many different sayings, words, accents there are to get used to…sometimes it’s only when a foreigner points out how odd what you’re saying is, that we even realize it!

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Grand Anse Beach maria at piscesinpurple dot com Spicemas AvatarComic Book EditionGrenada AvatarFourth of July AvatarBean's AvatarGold Star AvatarSanta Hat AvatarSt Patrick'sCaffeine FormulaAllegedly Accidental

My name is María. I like wasabi, patronize bunny rabbits and think red wine really needs to stop pretending it's not purple.

I lived in Caribbean for four glorious years. My son - Joaquín the illustrious Bean - was born on the island of Grenada. He's beautiful, brilliant and has two birth certificates.

Now we're back in the land of snow and afternoon sunsets, and all the diet Coke and Thomas the Tank Engine in the world won't cushion the blow of such culture shock.

This is our story.


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